Where-to:
Swim in the Desert this Summer

Steve Roelof   Website

Author: Renee Schiavone  |  Published: July 30, 2024  | Category: Where-To

This article originally appeared in The Bulletin on July 30, 2024.


Four fantastic swimming holes on the John Day River.

When the heat of summer stifles the air and finding a place to swim is top of mind, you might not think of heading to the desert. While Oregon’s High Desert isn’t pulsing with waterfalls like the west side of the Cascades, the dry side of the state is home to beautiful volcanic lakes in mountain calderas and hundreds of essential waterways, including the mighty John Day River. There’s plenty of beauty — and water — worth exploring here when temperatures rise.

These four spots on the John Day River might forever change your mind about heading to the desert for a swim.

 

voices

Terry Butler, 2018 Volunteer of the Year

Terry Butler, 2018 Volunteer of the Year

“If I have to pick a favorite place in Oregon’s high desert, it would be Sutton Mountain, but I’m excited about all of the Wilderness Study Areas,” says Terry, adding, “Each is a gem to explore, and I hope they all get protection someday… I love the scale of the physical beauty of the desert.”

fact

Western Rattlesnake

Western Rattlesnake

Also known as the Great Basin Rattlesnake, these pit vipers have buff-tan coloring and small, oval blotches to blend into their arid surroundings. Small heat-sensing indentations on each side of the snake’s snout detects warm-blooded prey for better striking accuracy in the dark. Source: The Oregon Encyclopedia

Latin name: Crotalus oreganus lutosus

fact

Bitteroot

Bitteroot

Bitteroot blooms on north-facing cliffs in western North America.

The Paiute name for bitteroot is kangedya. Traditional Native American uses of the plant included eating the roots, mixed with berries and meat, and using the roots to treat sore throats.

 

Wildflowers and John day River in Cottonwood Canyon State Park

Cottonwood Canyon State Park

Nestled along the banks of the John Day River between Wasco and Condon is Cottonwood Canyon, one of Oregon’s newest state parks. Cottonwood Canyon State Park encompasses 8,000 acres of rugged terrain with canyon walls reaching 1,250 feet deep. Rolling hills stretching from the shore are home to all kinds of desert wildlife, including bighorn sheep and elk. On the northern end of the river where the water flow is sleepy, the swimming opportunities are top-notch. Not to mention, a boat launch here makes it easy to take a kayak, canoe or raft out to on the water.

Cottonwood Canyon State Park website
Camper at Priest Hole Recreation Site

Priest Hole Recreation Site

Deep in the heart of John Day country is Priest Hole Recreation Site, a local favorite for swimming and fishing. The water here is crystal clear and the temperature is perfect for swimming. This spot is right in the middle of the John Day Wild and Scenic River, which was protected for its incredible scenery, fish and wildlife habitat, recreational opportunities and geological features. Camping at Priest Hole is free, and you can even set up your tent alongside the river, falling asleep to the sound of rushing water.

Priest Hole Recreation Site information
Bridge Creek near Painted Hills

Bridge Creek Swimming Hole

Conveniently located between Highway 26 and Painted Hills National Monument off of Bridge Creek/Burnt Ranch Road is the Bridge Creek campground. This is an excellent place to stop on your way to or from Painted Hills, one of Oregon’s Seven Wonders. Whether you’re spending the night or visiting for the day, this campground provides access to a lovely swimming spot on Bridge Creek, a 28-mile long tributary of the John Day River.

The Dyrt review of Bridge Creek/Burnt Ranch Campground
John Day River through sage brush

Big Bend Recreation Site

Like the Colorado and the Rio Grande, the John Day River also has its own “Big Bend.” The Big Bend Recreation Site is found a few miles north of the small town of Kimberly, at — you guessed it — a big bend in the John Day River. Given the large turn that the river takes, the water here flows slowly enough to create a fantastic swimming hole. For those who’d like to stick around for more than a day, four campsites on the northern bank of the river offer incredible views of the John Day and surrounding desert landscape.

Outdoor Project review of Big Bend Recreation Site

Conserving Desert Waters

Mighty desert rivers like the John Day are critical to sustaining High Desert ecosystems. In this arid landscape, water is scarce. With yet another hot and dry summer upon us, there’s no question that addressing, mitigating and reversing the effects of climate change and drought needs to be a top priority. Without the humble but essential desert water sources we have in eastern Oregon, life in the desert simply could not exist.